Rodenticide Chronicles ep. 1 - Understanding Anticoagulant Rat Baits
Welcome to the first installment of 'Rodenticide Chronicles'. In this eye-opening debut, we dive deep into the world of rodenticides, with a specific focus on the insidious threat of coagulopathy rat baits. We unravel the science behind these lethal compounds, shedding light on how they disrupt blood-clotting mechanisms in rodents and the unintended consequences they unleash on non-target species such as our pets. Our episode aims to foster awareness, offering insights into safer rodent control practices to keep our pets happy and healthy. Prepare to be enlightened about the hidden perils within your home.
What You’ll Learn:
We'll break down what coagulopathy rat bait is, how it works, and why it's a common choice for rodent control.
Dive deep into the science of how these baits disrupt rodents' blood-clotting mechanisms, providing a clear picture of the internal consequences.
Learn about the unintended victims including pets who suffer when they ingest these toxic compounds.
Get practical tips and guidance on responsible pest control practices that minimize the risks to your pets associated with rodenticides.
Ideas Worth Sharing:
"Coagulopathy rat bait poses a hidden danger, silently affecting our pet’s clotting mechanisms." - Dr. Tyler Sugerman
"The unintended victims of coagulopathy rat bait highlight the need for responsible pest control practices." - Dr. Tyler Sugerman
Watch On YouTube:
Read The Transcript:
Dr. Sugerman: [00:00:00] Hi, and welcome to Vetsplanation. I'm your veterinary host, Dr. Sugerman, and I'm going to teach you about veterinary medicine. In this podcast, we can dive deeper into the understanding of what our pets are going through and break down medical terms into easier to understand chunks of information. Just a quick disclaimer, this podcast is for informational purposes only.
This is not meant to be a diagnosis for your pet. If you have questions about diagnostics or treatment options, please talk to your veterinarian about those things. Remember, we are all practicing veterinary medicine and medicine is not an exact science. Your veterinarian may have different treatment options and different opinions.
The information I provide here is to help pet parents have a better understanding about their pets. If you like our podcast, please consider sharing this podcast with at least one friend or just somebody else who has pets as well. Now, let's jump into this week's episode.
right. Hey, everybody. Welcome back to another episode of Vetsplanation, the podcast where we [00:01:00] venture into the fascinating and occasionally scary world of veterinary science. I am your host, Dr. Sugerman, and today we're going to address a widespread but often misunderstood risk to our beloved pets. We're going to talk about coagulopathy rodenticide poisoning.
So that's a really big mouthful, but by the end of this podcast, you'll not only know what it means, but like how to prevent it and what to talk about with your veterinarian. So do you know that there are actually multiple types of rodenticides though? So not all types are what's called an anticoagulant.
Also the other problem is that certain companies make multiple types of rat bait. So people tend to assume that because they bought like the rat bait called Tomcat that it's just going to be an anticoagulant rodenticide. That's actually not true. Here's the problem. Tomcat makes all different kinds of rat baits.
All the boxes look the same and all of the bricks that they come in [00:02:00] look the same as well. The hard part is that most of those are not anticoagulant rodenticides. Those are usually going to be a different type of rodenticide or a different type of rat bait. And we treat each one of them differently, so it's super important that we know which rat bait this is.
We don't know which one it is, then we have to treat for all the different types of them. Therefore, we're actually going to be taking the next couple of weeks to do a deeper dive into each one of these different type of rat baits, so that way we know what the difference is and how we're going to treat each one.
All right, so let's dive into the coagulopathy rat baits. Let's first talk about what like coagulopathy means. That's a big word, right? So coag means to clot and opathy means a disease or a disorder. Therefore, a coagulopathy is a condition in which the patient's blood cannot clot.
Think about when you cut yourself, right? Your body will naturally heal. [00:03:00] It forms of blood clot on its own to stop that bleeding. This doesn't just happen from cuts in your skin, though, in your body and in your pet's body, it's like naturally breaking things down constantly.
And so it's having to form blood clots all the time. There's these little tiny microscopic blood clots. So if they get into a coagulopathy rat bait or one of those rat baits that causes them not to have a blood clot, this can lead to them having like prolonged or really excessive bleeding. Now, rat poison or more technically anticoagulant rodenticides are precisely that.
So they are designed to kill pests like rats and mice by preventing their blood from clotting. Unfortunately, they can have the exact same effect on our pets when they accidentally ingest them. So let's talk about what the types of anticoagulant rat baits are. There are the first generation. So it just means that these were the first ones that were [00:04:00] made.
1 of the names you may be familiar with is warfarin, but there's also lots of other ones as well. I'd say the other most common one that I see is diphacinone, but there's like lists of tons of other different types of first generation rodenticides, coagulopathy rodenticides. The first generation group though, it is required that the rodent goes to eat the rat bait multiple times and then it builds up in their bloodstream.
Therefore, then it can be killed that way. So it has to go back to that rodenticide like multiple times and eat it. Then they're like realized that these rodents were actually becoming immune to it, and so they needed to make a better one. So then came our second generation anticoagulant rodenticides.
This second generation could kill a rat about two and a half to 200 times faster than those first generation rodenticides. Therefore, they only needed a very small [00:05:00] amount. From the second generation to be toxic to both rodents and our animals. I'd say some of the most common ones that I'll see from the second generation, again, like just like the first generation, there are a huge list of second generation ones, but some of the most common ones are bromadiolone or difenacoum
But like I said, there's, there are lots of them. So how do these rat baits actually work? Like, how do they stop blood from clotting? They essentially work on vitamin K. The vitamin K is really important for the different parts of your blood clot to be made.
Kind of the best way that I can describe how like a blood clot is made is if you think about like bowling. In order to get a strike, you have to knock down all of the pins. If you were to think about if I was to throw the bowling ball, and only the left side gets knocked down not all the bowling pins are knocked down.
You can't actually make a blood clot you [00:06:00] can't have a strike if only, you know, six of the pins were actually knocked down. You have to have every single component in order to make a blood clot? And part of these components, we call them clotting factors. So if you think of each bowling pin as a clotting factor, if I don't have all of those bowling pins, we can't make strike or we can't make a blood clot.
So this takes away vitamin K, which takes away one of those pins essentially. We take away like one of the last pins. And then you can't make a blood clot because you can't make a strike if you don't have every single pin, right? So it's the same way with our rodenticides. If I don't have every single component inside those clotting factors or those clotting cascades, then we cannot make a blood clot.
And factor K is really important in that. So that would be like us taking away one of those bowling pins. Can't make a strike. So it's the best way to describe it without going into too much detail. There's a lot of details, this [00:07:00] huge, huge cascade that we have to memorize in vet school, which I'm not going to make you guys go through.
It's just too much to understand. The problem is, is that with these different parts of the blood clot or these different clotting factors or these different bowling pins, they're just like floating around in the bloodstream all the time.
But only for really short periods of time, depending on which clotting factor you're looking at. But the one that we are really interested in, it's called clotting factor seven, and it, it's only in the bloodstream from roughly about six to 16 hours. So it gets made pretty quickly and it goes away pretty quickly as well.
If your body cannot make more of that clotting factor, factor seven, or essentially can't bring that bowling pin back, then it will take longer for your body to be able to make a blood clot if it can. So then at about 24 hours to about 60 hours, so one to five days after ingesting the rat bait, the body [00:08:00] can not make any more blood clots because we don't have that factor seven or we don't have that bowling pin and we cannot form a blood clot then.
And vitamin K is like a really important part of that. Cause in order to make factor seven work, you have to have vitamin K. So therefore, if your pet gets into a rat bait, a coagulopathy rat bait, the symptoms are not going to appear right away. It can take one to five days after ingestion for any signs to show up.
So this is not a very good one to just wait and see if this causes a problem. Because it's most likely not going to cause a problem that day. And it might be that you go to work in four days and come home and realize that your pet is really bad off. It could be very bad and very scary. It's usually one if you know that your pet gets into rat bait, you should definitely go to the vet right away.
Okay. But like I said, takes up to about one to five days after ingestion for those [00:09:00] signs to show up. And this is the scary thing because you're pet will seem perfectly fine while internally we have a whole different story that's going on. So let's now talk about what those symptoms are and like how a diagnosis is made and what we can do about this.
So remember, like early detection in this is really vital to these cases. So looking out for signs such as them being really lethargic, bloody stools, black stools, bruising, especially like on their belly or on their gums, so if you lift up their lip you should see on their gums, sometimes there'll be bruising or like little red marks.
You might see bruising in the armpits as well. You could see bloody urine, nosebleeds, weakness, difficulty breathing, so we call that respiratory distress, and even seizures in some severe cases. Another thing that you might be able to look for is when you look at their gums, they'll have what's called pallor, meaning that they're really pale, rather than the nice healthy pink that we should see.[00:10:00]
So if you suspect that your pet actually has gotten into some sort of coagulopathy rat bait, the best thing that you can do is rush them to the vet immediately. So if they've gotten into the coagulopathy rat bait within about four hours of coming into the vet. We will most likely just make them vomit to try to get out as much as possible.
Of all the rat baits, I actually like this rat bait the most because it can be such a very simple thing that we have to do, and it can be a life saving thing before we actually have problems. So what we would do is if we know within four hours we make them vomit, and then we're usually just going to put them on vitamin K after that.
So it depends on which rat bait they got into, which coagulopathy rat bait they got into. Some of them were going to do vitamin K for two weeks if it was one of those first generation ones, versus when it's one of the second generation ones, we're going to do it for about a month because they can definitely last for a lot longer.
But it is very, very important that this is given, [00:11:00] the vitamin K, because like I said, vitamin K will make that last bowling pin come back into your set there. You cannot make a strike unless you have that last bowling pin. So unless we have vitamin K, we cannot activate factor seven and we cannot make that blood clot.
So it's super important to actually give it for that whole period of time and ideally, not skipping even two doses. I've definitely had people skip a dose and it's been okay, but I've had somebody that skipped two doses and that pet came in and couldn't breathe because it was bleeding into its chest.
Definitely give those doses every day. Ideally, it should also be given with a fatty meal because vitamin K is a fat soluble vitamin, meaning that it gets absorbed best with fat and then stored into a fatty organ, which is the liver. And then after the last dose of vitamin K, we'll usually wait about 36 hours and then have you repeat the blood work so we can see if there is any signs of having like [00:12:00] difficulty clotting in that situation.
So the blood work, there's going to be a couple of things that we do. One is usually going to be the PT and PTT. Some people will just do the PT. All this means is it's a clotting factor, like it's a test to tell you if your blood is able to make a blood clot.
And PT specifically will be more of a test to tell us whether it is potentially a problem with factor 7, which is that factor that vitamin K is going to work on the quickest. If the PT is really elevated, then we know that this is most likely a coagulopathy rat bait, and they're not able to make a blood clot.
So if we finish the vitamin K and that PT is elevated, then that's not good. We have to keep them on vitamin K for much longer periods of time. If it's normal though after 36 hours, then that's it. That's all we had to do. We just had to make them vomit, put them on vitamin K, test their [00:13:00] blood work, and make sure that they look okay.
I said, if we can get this on time you know that it happened, this can be the best scenario for them. The hard part is when we don't know if they've gotten into it or not. So sometimes they'll come in and you'll just say they've been having bloody urine or I see bruising on them and then we have to start wondering could this potentially be a rat bait poisoning or coagulopathy rat bait poisoning.
So if it's been more than 24 hours since they got into it, some of the tests that we're going to run are likely going to be CBC. So CBC stands for a complete blood count. That's just telling us like what the red blood cells are doing, what their platelets are doing. Platelets are another big thing that we need to help us clot.
And then we're also going to run a chemistry that's telling us how their liver and kidney and other organs are functioning. And then we're also going to run those clotting times. Those can be called coagulation factors, clotting times, PTT and aPTT. All of those mean [00:14:00] the same thing. It just means that we're testing to see if the blood can clot appropriately.
So it's clotting times. Like I said, those are the ones that are going to be the most important for rat bait, but we need those other blood tests to know that it's not something different because there are other coagulopathies or other problems that can cause your blood not to clot. So it doesn't test specifically for rat bait, but it helps us to determine that this is potentially from it.
Other test too may be things like radiographs or x rays is the commonly known word for that, or it could be an ultrasound. Both of those were actually looking to see if there is blood in some, some part of the body where it shouldn't be like in the chest, around the heart, or in the belly or abdomen. If the blood work looks okay, if we see that most of the blood work is fine, but that PT was elevated, then we know most likely that this is going [00:15:00] to be a coagulopathy rat bait.
If we start seeing that there are other problems, like we start seeing that there's blood going into places that shouldn't be, like bruising, or we see blood in the abdomen or blood in the chest, then we know that we need to hospitalize that pet.
So we're gonna talk about now like what our treatments are if your pet does start showing symptoms. So in those cases, the pet will most likely need to be hospitalized like I said. Typically we're gonna do a couple things. One, we're gonna be putting in two IV catheters. One is gonna be for fluids, 'cause we wanna put an IV catheter in to keep them hydrated and to keep the blood flow moving.
The second IV catheter is going to be for plasma. It's called a plasma transfusion. That's the part of your blood that holds all of those clotting factors. We want to give another animal's clotting factors back to that pet. So that way they can use them until their body is able to produce more of those clotting factors.
We can make those blood clots where they [00:16:00] need to be until the body can start producing more. Some people or some veterinarians will give a whole blood transfusion as well. That just means that we have red blood cells and plasma. So we're giving them both back those clotting factors that they need and we're giving them red blood cells at the same time.
We'll do that if they've lost a lot of red blood cells because let's say they're bleeding into their abdomen. It's a big cavity and there's a lot of blood that can fill that. So it may be that they've lost too much blood into their abdomen and we need to give them red blood cells back as well.
This isn't always the case though, most of the time it ends up being just plasma transfusions. The next big thing we need to give is vitamin K. So just if you were to go home and we give vitamin K, we give vitamin K in the hospital as well. Because we need vitamin K in order for that factor 7 to be able to activate.
So we need that in order to get our last bowling pin in so we can make a strike. So this is the same regimen as before. If we're going to give vitamin K, it's either going to be for [00:17:00] 2 weeks or up to a month, just depending on which one that they got into. And if we don't know, we're going to give it for the whole month.
So most coagulopathy rat baits though now are the second generation ones, which is why we're going to give it for that longer period of time. And then we continue to check their clotting times or check to see how well they're able to clot until they've been normal and they can remain normal over a couple of times.
Sometimes though, that means we have to give more plasma. So it might be that their clotting times are normal and then they go back up again after they've used up all of those clotting factors inside of that other animal's blood. If we put a bunch of pins from another lane into your lane, and they all get used up, you still can't make a strike.
So we sometimes have to give more back in order to be able to get more into that pet's body to be able to help them make a blood clot. Unfortunately, this is one of those things that we can't make the body speed up making more clotting factors. It has to do this on its own. [00:18:00] So we don't have a pill that we can give.
We don't have any magic, anything magical that we can give to make them make more clotting factors. This is up to that pet's body to do that. We just have to help support them until they can.
All right, so let's talk about how we prevent this. So the best way is to keep the to keep the rodenticides just in some sort of locked up container that the pets cannot destroy, this isn't a guarantee, unfortunately, that they won't get into the rat bait as like mice and rats can drag them from the blocks out of the trap, which then the pets eat, or even the pet can eat the rodent that has not yet digested that block and they can get it that way. But it is better, though, than having just left under a porch or behind a shed or something that you don't think that that pet can get into, you know, they find ways and a lot of these blocks are flavored to be something that smells good to rodents. So things like, peanut butter. So dogs are going to want to eat them. [00:19:00] So don't just leave them out places. Try to have them in some sort of locked up container that only the mice and rats can get into.
All right, let's talk about some of our most common questions here. So the most common question I get is probably whether you can make your pet vomit at home or not. And I've talked a lot about this before. There are risks to doing that. You can use hydrogen peroxide, but it doesn't always work. And I have seen pets aspirate or basically inhale hydrogen peroxide when they shouldn't have, and then have to be hospitalized just for a whole different reason.
It could have been something we easily gave the medication to make them vomit and then sent them home with vitamin K. But now we have to fight two things. We have to give them vitamin K, and we also have to hospitalize them for their aspiration pneumonia. I don't recommend it unless you're like in the middle of nowhere, can't get to a vet hospital, then sure, you should do that.
But, the hard thing is if you are in the [00:20:00] middle of nowhere then you try to give hydrogen peroxide, but it doesn't work. Then you're still going to have to go to the vet. Or let's say you do get them to vomit up all the rat bait. You still have to have them seen by a vet to be put on vitamin K.
You know, to me, I feel like it's better to just go to the vet and have them do it so we have less of a chance of aspirating and we can get them on the correct medication. What we typically do is we give a medication into the vein or like a drop into the eye, which makes them vomit. So we aren't giving like large amounts of this really gross tasting medication into their mouth, which they could potentially aspirate.
So if you do make them vomit, I recommend giving them some sort of food first, because they need stuff in their stomach. Otherwise, this is not going to work. Then you can use hydrogen peroxide. Just make sure it's the 3 percent one. That's usually the standard one, but there is the 30 percent one, which is used to bleach hair.
So we want the less concentrated one, just the 3 percent one. [00:21:00] And the dose is one mL per 10 pounds. If you don't have a syringe, that is roughly about one teaspoon for every five pounds that your dog weighs, or your cat weighs. Some places recommend like a maximum dose of 45 mils, or basically nine teaspoons.
So we don't want to go over that ideally. It will take about 15 minutes after you give the hydrogen peroxide for them to vomit and then they can even vomit for about 45 minutes after you've given that peroxide as well. So don't be surprised if they continue vomiting. The dose can be repeated one more time.
So let's say if they didn't vomit in the first 30 minutes, you can repeat that dose again. But otherwise you don't want to repeat anything after that. At that point, you get in the car and you drive to the vet. You're just gonna be... risking so many other things, so just, just bring them to the vet if that's the case.
So I'll also note that, making your pets vomit, this is only for dogs, cats, ferrets, and even like pot bellied pigs. Rodents, rabbits, birds, [00:22:00] horses, ruminants like cows and goats and stuff cannot vomit. So if that's the case, like I've definitely had somebody call about their pet rabbit getting into rat bait.
You need to call the ASPCA or the Pet Poison Helpline. And then take your rabbit on the way to the vet because you do not want to give them hydrogen peroxide because they cannot vomit and you're going to cause way more problems. So don't do that. I'm also going to say cats are a little bit of a special thing as well.
Even when we try to make them vomit where we're not always successful. So we have to give them different drugs than dogs and therefore hydrogen peroxide rarely, rarely works on them. Someone also called the other day and they said that they gave like activated charcoal to the pet and they said to make them vomit, but it didn't work. Just so you know, activated charcoal does not make a pet vomit. We wouldn't want them to vomit it up because that could actually be really dangerous if they did.
So another common question I get is if poison control needs to be [00:23:00] called. That really depends on the facility that you're going to and then the type of rodenticide that they ingested. To be on the safe side it's always good to call poison control so that way, we have an idea of what's going on, but it's not always necessary. So I will say, though, that you do need to bring the package of the rat bait. I've had people who've tried to Google it and remember I told you that those boxes look exactly alike. So if you Google it and you're like, this is what the package looked like. It doesn't matter because it could be any of those different activating ingredients.
It may not be the one that causes a clotting problem. It might be one that causes a neurological problem and then we will treat them differently and we will treat your pet wrong. So we don't want to do that. So you want to bring the box, the actual box. Even the color can be difficult.
I've definitely also seen people have brought in the blue or green blocks and they're like It's the blue, the blue block, so it has to be, this kind. [00:24:00] But unfortunately, again, that's not the case. They make all the different types of rodenticides in different colors.
So just because it's a green block does not mean that's the anticoagulant rodenticide. Even if you've left the house and you've forgotten to grab the box, have somebody at home take a picture of the box we need to know exactly which active ingredient it is.
Otherwise, we have to treat them for all the different types, because we don't know 100 percent which one it is, and we don't want to treat for the wrong one. Therefore, if you have the package, you can take a picture of it or bring it in. That's the best thing that you can do. Then we can figure out whether or not you need to call poison control because if it's an anticoagulant rodenticide most people know how to handle those and we don't have to do that but you know if it's a different type of rodenticide then a lot of times we do need you to call.
All right next I've also had someone call stating that their pet had gotten into rat bait pellets and since it wasn't a block they thought they'd just [00:25:00] figured that it probably wasn't harmful now, but that's not true. So most of them do come in blocks yes, but companies do also make pellets wax blocks powders into all these different types of rat baits as well. So just because it's not a block doesn't mean that it's not harmful It's definitely something that could be harmful.
And then the last question I usually get is are all rodenticides harmful to our pets? So technically no that was a hard one. So there are some that are not harmful to pets. One of the ones that claims this is Rat X. So what it does is it coats the lining of the stomach. So it blocks like signals to the brain to tell the rat to like drink water.
Essentially, these rats just die of dehydration. Luckily for our cats and dogs, they have much larger intestines, so there's less of a chance of hurting them. But let's say like a three pound chihuahua eats the whole giant bag of it. Then that might be a different [00:26:00] story. That could definitely be harmful to them.
So I still say, even if it says that it's okay for pets to call, because you need to make sure. And a lot of these rat baits they'll actually have a number on the back of the package too. That says if you have a problem, if you feel like your pet got into something or you ate something, call this number.
You can call that number. They cannot advise us of what to do, but they might be able to tell you whether or not if they've gotten too much, it might cause a problem.
So we're nearing the end of our episode now.
I would like to round this off by stressing the importance of prevention rather than the cure as like most of the things we talk about, right? So keep the products out of the pet's reach. If you're dealing with a pest problem, consider some sort of safer alternative first by putting them in the boxes.
Things like that. And if you suspect that your pet has consumed anything they shouldn't, like these rat baits. Definitely take action immediately by getting them into your veterinarian and then bringing the package, if at all possible.
We're going to do an animal fact now. [00:27:00] Okay, I'm sorry. It's not actually an animal fact today.
So I'm sorry to disappoint you a little bit, but it's super interesting. All right. So we're going to talk about warfarin. So we already talked about this is one of the first generation anticoagulants, right? So this all started with a farmer. See, there's an animal in here. It all started with a farmer who had a dead cow.
So he walked into this university in this investigator's office. And said hey, I have these cows that keep dying and there's keep having bloody urine and there's all this moldy clover around. I don't know what is happening, but I need you to investigate this so we can stop having all these cows die.
There's multiple cows that are dying around the area. So the scientists looked into it and figured out that the clover smelled sweet but tasted really bitter. So that's what was actually attracting the cows. So they started running all these tests on these clovers to try to figure out like what in the clover was [00:28:00] actually causing this bloody urine and then causing them to die.
They found a bunch of chemicals that could actually contribute to it. But the one chemical that they found, they called it isolate number 42. It was so potent that it could kill all the rodents that they were experimenting on. And it would cause them to have like bruising, or bloody urine, or bloody stool, and then they would die.
So they knew that this was probably what was causing these cows to die. This actually is what happened to make our first rodenticide, which was made in the 40s, by the Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation. That acronym is WARF for short, Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation, or WARF, W A R F. And they were investigating like how to get rid of this rodent problem now too, because they're like we found out that it's this is what's killing all the cows, but now we know we can use it to kill off all these rodents too.
So they came up with Warfarin, which is actually the name. It's actually named after WARF, [00:29:00] who did the research on this anticoagulant rodenticide. Rodents started to become immune to warfarin, and therefore they had to start making better rat baits. They would have to make ones that would kill faster so that they're not so immune to them.
So in comes those second generation of rat baits, like we talked about earlier, and other types of rat baits as well. Once they realized they had this chemical, though, they started seeing if it could be used in human medicine, and started doing human medicine trials. Of course, because human medicine is going to make a lot more money than rodenticides, but it was still an interesting thing. like, Could this be used in human medicine? So it was used for people who had strokes and heart attacks to help prevent more blood clots from being made. They are just used at much lower doses than, so that you don't kill the patient.
But it will take those people who are on this warfarin like longer to form a blood clot if they are hurt for some reason. So if they get injured it's going to take a lot longer for them to form a blood clot. They [00:30:00] still can, just takes longer. So then the doctors were like really hesitant.
They're like you want me to use this thing that kills animals on my patients. It wasn't until Dwight Eisenhower, who was our president had a heart attack during his presidency, and they gave him warfarin. After giving him warfarin, and they realized it saved his life. Doctors started to feel like it might be safer and more effective of a treatment than they thought.
So now there are lots of different types of anticoagulants that are used for medical purposes, but there's a lot less people who are on warfarin now. They do say that experts have like estimated there's still 100 million prescriptions that go out of it each year for people who have these heart attacks and strokes and other things that will cause like your blood to clot too quickly.
It's super interesting all the things that you can use it for. I just find that it's really crazy that you had the same drug that came from some moldy clover [00:31:00] that was killing off all these cows can actually save lives as well. And the other interesting thing is that it was brought to human medicine by animal medicine because, it goes both ways.
People always think that we have human medicine stuff that's brought to animal side, which there are a lot of, but there's also a lot of ones that are brought from the animal side to human medicine side. All right, guys. In our next episode, we're going to be discussing the neurological type of rat bait, but until then, please keep your pets happy, healthy and safe.
Thanks again.
Thank you guys for listening this week. If you have any questions, comments, suggestions, or you just want to say hi, you can email me at Suggs, S U G G S @ VetsplanationPodcast.com or visit the website at VetsplanationPodcast.com or find us on Facebook, Instagram, or TikTok at Vetsplanation. Thank you all for listening and I'll see you back here next week.[00:32:00]